🐶 Your Dog's Pregnancy
A complete UK guide to canine pregnancy — from the first signs to whelping day and caring for newborn puppies
Whether your dog's pregnancy was planned or a surprise, the next 63 days are going to be a remarkable journey. Canine pregnancy is relatively short compared to humans, which means things move fast — and being prepared makes all the difference between a smooth whelping and a stressful emergency.
This guide covers everything from the earliest signs of pregnancy through to the first weeks with newborn puppies. It's written for UK dog owners and includes guidance on when to involve your vet, what to have ready, and what to expect at every stage. If this is your first time dealing with a pregnant dog, take a deep breath — dogs have been doing this for thousands of years, and most pregnancies go smoothly with minimal human intervention.
📊 Canine Pregnancy at a Glance
🔍 Signs Your Dog Might Be Pregnant
If your dog has mated (or you suspect she has), watch for these signs in the days and weeks following:
Early Signs (Weeks 1-3)
- Behavioural changes — she may become quieter, more affectionate, or slightly withdrawn. Some dogs become clingy; others want more alone time
- Appetite changes — some dogs go off their food temporarily (canine morning sickness), while others eat more than usual from the start
- Mild lethargy — slightly less energy than normal, wanting to rest more
- Nipple changes — the nipples may become slightly pinker or more prominent as early as two weeks after mating
Mid-Pregnancy Signs (Weeks 3-6)
- Weight gain — gradual at first, becoming more noticeable from week 5 onwards
- Enlarged abdomen — visible from around week 5, though this varies by breed and litter size
- Increased appetite — after any initial nausea passes, appetite usually increases significantly
- Clear vaginal discharge — a small amount of clear discharge is normal. Any coloured, foul-smelling, or bloody discharge warrants an immediate vet visit
- Nipple enlargement — nipples continue to grow and the mammary glands begin to develop
Late Signs (Weeks 6-9)
- Obvious abdominal enlargement — the belly is now clearly larger and you may be able to feel (and sometimes see) puppies moving from around week 7
- Nesting behaviour — she'll start looking for a quiet, safe place to give birth. She may dig at bedding, rearrange blankets, or try to hide in cupboards or under beds
- Milk production — the mammary glands fill and you may notice milk or colostrum leaking in the final days
- Temperature drop — in the 24 hours before labour begins, her body temperature typically drops from the normal 38.3-39.2°C to below 37.8°C. This is one of the most reliable indicators that whelping is imminent
📅 Week-by-Week Pregnancy Timeline
Here's what's happening inside your dog at each stage, and what you should be doing:
Fertilisation & Cell Division
The fertilised eggs travel down the fallopian tubes and begin dividing. Your dog shows few if any outward signs. No changes to diet or exercise are needed yet.
- Continue normal feeding and exercise
- Avoid any unnecessary medications — check with your vet
- Do not apply flea or worm treatments without vet approval (some are not safe during pregnancy)
Implantation
The embryos implant into the uterine wall around day 16-22. Hormonal changes begin. Some dogs experience mild nausea or appetite loss — the canine equivalent of morning sickness.
- Don't worry if she goes off her food for a day or two — offer small, frequent meals
- Avoid rough play and strenuous activity
- Book your vet appointment for week 4
Embryo Development
The embryos develop rapidly. A vet can detect pregnancy by ultrasound from around day 25. The embryos are about 1.5cm long and developing their major organs. This is the most vulnerable stage — the embryos are susceptible to damage from medications, chemicals, and infections.
- Vet ultrasound to confirm pregnancy
- Discuss nutrition plan and safe worming with your vet
- Avoid any chemicals, pesticides, or household toxins near your dog
- Continue moderate exercise — gentle walks are fine
Foetal Growth Accelerates
The foetuses are now recognisably dog-shaped. Toes, claws, and whiskers are forming. The amniotic fluid increases and your dog's abdomen begins to visibly enlarge. Weight gain accelerates.
- Gradually increase food quantity by 10-15%
- Consider switching to a high-quality puppy food (higher in calories and protein) — ask your vet
- Feed smaller, more frequent meals as her growing uterus compresses her stomach
Pigmentation & Rapid Growth
The puppies develop skin pigmentation and their markings form. Your dog's nipples darken and enlarge further. She may start eating noticeably more. Belly is clearly larger.
- Continue increasing food — she now needs about 20% more than her pre-pregnancy diet
- Reduce exercise intensity — shorter walks, no jumping, no rough play
- Start preparing the whelping area (see below)
- An X-ray can now show developing skeletons from day 45 — book with your vet to get an accurate puppy count
Puppies Are Nearly Fully Formed
The puppies' coats are developing and they're becoming increasingly active — you may be able to feel them moving if you place your hand gently on her abdomen. Your dog may start shedding belly fur to prepare for nursing.
- Food intake should now be 25-30% above normal
- Feed 3-4 small meals per day rather than 1-2 large ones
- Have the whelping box set up and introduce her to it
- Begin taking her temperature twice daily (rectal thermometer) and recording it — you're watching for the pre-labour drop
Final Preparations
The puppies' skeletons are fully mineralised and they're getting into position for birth. Your dog will show strong nesting behaviour — scratching at bedding, circling, panting, and seeking out quiet spaces. She may become restless or anxious.
- Keep her environment calm and quiet
- Limit visitors and disruptions
- Ensure your whelping kit is fully stocked and within reach (see checklist below)
- Confirm your vet's emergency out-of-hours contact number
- Stop long walks — short toilet trips in the garden are enough
Whelping (Birth)
Most dogs whelp between day 58 and day 68, with day 63 being the average. The temperature drop (below 37.8°C) signals that labour will begin within 12-24 hours. See the whelping section below for full details.
🥩 Feeding Your Pregnant Dog
Proper nutrition during pregnancy is critical for the health of both mother and puppies. Getting it wrong can lead to serious complications including eclampsia (dangerously low calcium), inadequate milk production, and underweight puppies.
The Key Principles
- Weeks 1-4: No change to normal diet is usually needed. Continue feeding her regular high-quality adult food in normal quantities
- Weeks 5-6: Gradually increase food by 15-25%. Switch to a high-quality puppy food or a food specifically labelled for pregnant/nursing dogs — these have higher protein, fat, and calcium content
- Weeks 7-9: Increase food to 25-50% above her pre-pregnancy intake, depending on litter size. Feed 3-4 small meals per day — her swollen uterus compresses her stomach, making large meals uncomfortable
- During nursing: She'll need even more calories while feeding puppies — up to 2-3 times her normal intake, depending on litter size. She's eating for herself and multiple growing puppies
What to Feed
- Recommended: High-quality puppy food from a reputable brand (Royal Canin, Hills Science Plan, Purina Pro Plan, Arden Grange, or similar). Puppy food is designed to be calorie-dense, high in protein, and rich in the nutrients needed for growth — exactly what a pregnant dog needs
- Avoid: Raw diets during pregnancy (higher risk of bacterial infection including Salmonella and Listeria), home-cooked diets without veterinary nutritional guidance, cheap supermarket foods with poor-quality ingredients, and any supplements not recommended by your vet
Fresh Water
This sounds obvious, but a pregnant dog drinks significantly more water than normal — especially in the final weeks and during nursing. Ensure fresh water is always available and check the bowl several times a day. Dehydration during pregnancy is dangerous for both mother and puppies.
🏥 Whelping — The Birth
Most dogs whelp naturally without any human assistance. Your job is to be prepared, stay calm, observe quietly, and intervene only when necessary. Resist the urge to "help" unless there's a genuine problem — dogs know what they're doing.
Setting Up the Whelping Area
- Choose a quiet, warm, draft-free room where she feels safe — not the middle of the living room
- Use a whelping box or a large, sturdy cardboard box with low sides (she needs to get in and out, but the puppies need to be contained). The box should be at least 1.5 times her body length in each direction
- Line it with clean towels, sheets, or puppy pads — you'll be changing these frequently
- Keep the room at 24-26°C for the first week (newborn puppies cannot regulate their own temperature)
- Introduce your dog to the whelping area at least a week before the due date — let her sleep in it, nest in it, and claim it as hers
The Three Stages of Labour
Stage 1: Pre-Labour (6-24 hours)
Your dog becomes restless, pants, shivers, may vomit, refuses food, and nests obsessively. Her temperature has dropped below 37.8°C. She may look at you with a slightly panicked expression as if to say "something is happening." This is normal. Let her pace, nest, and settle in her own time. Stay nearby but don't crowd her.
Stage 2: Active Labour — Delivering Puppies
Visible contractions begin — you'll see her abdomen tense and she'll strain. The first puppy should arrive within 1-2 hours of strong contractions beginning. Subsequent puppies typically arrive every 30-60 minutes, though gaps of up to 2 hours between puppies can be normal.
Each puppy arrives in its own amniotic sac. The mother should break the sac, bite through the umbilical cord, and lick the puppy vigorously to stimulate breathing. Most dogs do this instinctively. If she doesn't break the sac within a minute or two, you'll need to do it carefully with clean hands — this is the most common intervention needed.
Stage 3: Delivery of Placentas
Each puppy has its own placenta, which is usually delivered within 5-15 minutes of each puppy. Count the placentas — there should be one for each puppy. A retained placenta can cause a serious infection. The mother will often eat the placentas — this is natural (they contain hormones that stimulate milk production and contract the uterus), but eating too many can cause vomiting and diarrhoea. Allowing her to eat one or two and removing the rest is a reasonable approach.
What You Should Do During Whelping
- Stay calm. Your dog will pick up on your anxiety. Speak quietly, move slowly
- Observe but don't interfere unless something is wrong. Sit quietly nearby
- Keep a record — note the time each puppy is born, its sex, colour/markings, and whether the placenta was delivered. This information is useful for your vet
- Keep clean towels handy to dry puppies if the mother doesn't do it herself
- Ensure each puppy starts nursing within the first 1-2 hours — the first milk (colostrum) contains essential antibodies
- Remove soiled bedding and replace with clean towels between puppies if possible
- Offer water but don't force food during active labour. She may drink between puppies
- More than 2 hours of strong contractions without a puppy being born
- More than 2 hours between puppies with continued straining
- Green or black discharge before the first puppy is born (green discharge after the first puppy is normal)
- She is in obvious severe pain, crying out, or biting at herself
- A puppy is stuck in the birth canal — you can see it but it's not progressing
- She collapses, has tremors, or becomes unresponsive
- More than 24 hours since the temperature drop but no signs of labour
- You know (from the X-ray) there are more puppies but labour appears to have stopped
- She has a foul-smelling or bloody discharge at any stage
🍼 After the Birth — The First Weeks
The First 24 Hours
Once all puppies are delivered and the mother has settled, your priorities are:
- Ensure every puppy is nursing. Colostrum (first milk) is essential in the first 12-24 hours — it contains antibodies that protect the puppies against infection until their own immune systems develop
- Keep the room warm — 24-26°C for the first week. Newborn puppies cannot regulate their body temperature and can die of hypothermia very quickly. A heat lamp or heat pad under part of the bedding (not the whole area — the mother needs a cool spot) is advisable
- Weigh each puppy and record the weight. Weigh them daily for the first two weeks — consistent weight gain is the best indicator that they're feeding properly. A puppy that fails to gain weight or loses weight needs veterinary attention
- Offer the mother food and water. She'll be exhausted and dehydrated. Offer easily digestible food in small quantities — puppy food moistened with warm water works well
- Book a vet check for mother and puppies within 24-48 hours of the birth
The First Two Weeks
Newborn puppies are blind, deaf, and completely dependent on their mother. They can do three things: suckle, sleep, and crawl toward warmth. During this period:
- The mother will do most of the work — feeding, cleaning (she licks the puppies to stimulate urination and defecation), and keeping them warm
- Handle the puppies briefly each day for weight checks, but don't separate them from the mother for long
- Keep the whelping area scrupulously clean — change bedding at least daily
- Monitor the mother for signs of mastitis (infection of the mammary glands): red, hot, swollen, or painful teats, fever, loss of appetite, or reluctance to nurse. Mastitis is a veterinary emergency
- Watch for signs of eclampsia in the mother: muscle tremors, stiffness, restlessness, panting, and disorientation. This is caused by dangerously low calcium levels and is a life-threatening emergency. It most commonly occurs 1-3 weeks after birth in small breeds with large litters
Weeks 3-4: Eyes and Ears Open
The puppies' eyes open at around 10-14 days and their ears begin to function at around 14-21 days. They start to become aware of their environment and begin tentative exploration of the whelping area. This is the beginning of socialisation — the most critical developmental period for a puppy.
- Begin gentle handling by different people — this helps socialise the puppies
- Introduce new sounds, textures, and gentle stimuli
- The puppies will start attempting to stand and walk (wobbly at first)
- First teeth begin to emerge around week 3
Weeks 4-8: Weaning and Socialisation
- Week 4: Begin introducing solid food — puppy food soaked in warm water to a porridge-like consistency. The mother will naturally start spending more time away from the puppies
- Week 5-6: Gradually reduce liquid in the food. Puppies should be eating semi-solid food alongside continuing to nurse. Begin house training basics — puppies will naturally start toileting away from their sleeping area
- Week 7-8: Puppies should be fully weaned and eating solid puppy food. This is the prime socialisation window — expose them to as many safe, positive experiences as possible: different people, surfaces, sounds, other vaccinated animals. These experiences shape their temperament for life
⚠️ When Things Go Wrong
Most canine pregnancies and births go smoothly, but complications can and do occur. Being aware of them means you can act quickly if needed.
Dystocia (Difficult Birth)
Occurs when a puppy cannot be delivered naturally — due to the puppy's size, position, or the mother's anatomy. Brachycephalic breeds (Bulldogs, French Bulldogs, Pugs) and breeds with large heads and narrow hips are at highest risk. Some breeds have caesarean rates above 80%. If labour stalls, call your vet — a caesarean section may be needed.
Eclampsia (Milk Fever)
A life-threatening drop in blood calcium, usually occurring 1-3 weeks after birth. Signs include tremors, stiffness, panting, restlessness, and seizures. Most common in small breeds with large litters. This is a veterinary emergency — call immediately. Treatment is intravenous calcium, which works rapidly.
Mastitis
Infection of the mammary glands. Signs: red, hot, hard, or painful teats; fever; refusal to nurse; lethargy. Untreated mastitis can become septicaemia (blood poisoning). Requires veterinary treatment with antibiotics. Puppies may need to be supplemented or hand-fed while the mother is treated.
Fading Puppy Syndrome
Some puppies fail to thrive in the first 1-2 weeks despite apparently normal birth. Signs include failure to gain weight, weakness, constant crying, cold skin, and refusal to suckle. Causes include infection, congenital defects, insufficient milk, and low birth weight. Veterinary intervention is essential — some fading puppies can be saved with supplementary feeding, warmth, and medical treatment.
✅ Whelping Kit Checklist
Have everything ready and in one place at least two weeks before the due date:
Essential Items
- Whelping box or large sturdy box with low sides
- Clean towels (at least 10 — you'll go through them quickly)
- Puppy pads or absorbent sheets for the base of the box
- Heat lamp or heat pad (for keeping puppies warm)
- Room thermometer (maintain 24-26°C)
- Digital rectal thermometer (for monitoring her temperature pre-labour)
- Kitchen scales (for daily puppy weighing)
- Notebook and pen (for recording times, weights, and placenta count)
- Disposable gloves (non-latex)
- Dental floss or thread (for tying umbilical cords if mother doesn't bite through)
- Blunt-ended scissors (sterilised, for cutting cords if needed)
- Iodine solution (for dabbing umbilical cord stumps)
- Bulb syringe or puppy aspirator (for clearing fluid from airways)
- Puppy milk replacer (in case of nursing problems)
- Small feeding bottles or syringes (for supplementary feeding)
- Clean water bowl and easily digestible food for the mother
- Bin bags for soiled towels
- Your vet's daytime and emergency out-of-hours phone number written down
🤔 A Note on Responsible Breeding
If your dog's pregnancy is unplanned, this section isn't meant to lecture you — it happens, and your priority now is making sure mum and puppies are safe and healthy. But if you're considering breeding your dog in the future, there are some important things to consider.
Before Breeding
- Health testing — responsible breeders test for breed-specific genetic conditions before mating. The Kennel Club's Breed Health Information pages list recommended tests for every recognised breed
- Age — bitches should not be bred before their second season (typically 18-24 months) and most vets recommend not breeding after age 7-8. The Kennel Club will not register puppies from a mother under 1 year or over 8 years old
- Costs — breeding is expensive. Vet bills (scans, emergency caesarean if needed), food, worming, vaccinations, microchipping, and Kennel Club registration can easily exceed the income from selling puppies. Breeding for profit is rarely profitable and is never a reason to breed
- Finding homes — you are responsible for every puppy you bring into the world. Can you find good, permanent homes for every puppy in the litter? Are you prepared to take any back if the owners can't keep them?
💉 After the Puppies — Spaying
If you don't intend to breed your dog again, speak to your vet about spaying once the puppies are weaned and her body has recovered (typically 2-3 months after whelping). Spaying eliminates the risk of pyometra (a life-threatening uterine infection that affects approximately 25% of unspayed bitches by age 10), significantly reduces the risk of mammary tumours, and prevents future unplanned pregnancies.
The PDSA, RSPCA, Dogs Trust, and Blue Cross all strongly recommend spaying unless you have a specific, responsible reason to breed. Many of these charities offer subsidised spaying for owners on low incomes — check their websites for eligibility.
🐾 You've Got This
Canine pregnancy is one of nature's most remarkable processes. In just nine weeks, your dog will grow, nurture, and deliver a litter of puppies — each one a unique, individual life that began as a single cell. Your role is to support her with good nutrition, a calm environment, proper veterinary care, and the quiet confidence that comes from being prepared.
Most pregnancies proceed without complication. Most births happen naturally and smoothly. Most puppies are born healthy and strong. But being prepared for the exceptions — knowing when to call the vet, having your whelping kit ready, understanding the warning signs — is what separates a stressful experience from a joyful one.
Trust your dog. Trust your vet. And enjoy the incredible experience of watching new lives come into the world.