Everything you need to know about keeping your dog clean, comfortable, and healthy — from coat care and brushing to nail trimming, bathing, and professional grooming.
Grooming is far more than keeping your dog looking good. Regular grooming prevents matting, removes dead hair, dirt, and dandruff, and stimulates the natural oils in your dog's skin that keep their coat glossy and healthy. It also gives you a chance to check for lumps, bumps, skin irritation, fleas, ticks, and early signs of health problems.
Dogs that are groomed regularly tend to be more comfortable being handled, which makes vet visits much easier. The PDSA recommends starting grooming routines as early as possible — ideally when your dog is still a puppy — so they grow up comfortable with the process.
Use grooming sessions as bonding time. Keep them positive with gentle praise and the occasional treat, especially when your dog is first getting used to being brushed or handled.
The single biggest factor in your dog's grooming needs is their coat type. Different coats require different tools, brushing frequencies, and professional grooming schedules. Here's a breakdown of the main coat types you'll encounter:
Short, sleek fur that lies flat against the body. Low maintenance but still sheds. No undercoat, so these dogs can feel the cold and benefit from a coat in winter.
Short topcoat with a thick, insulating undercoat. Sheds heavily, especially in spring and autumn. Requires regular de-shedding to prevent loose fur buildup.
Fur around an inch long that may stand slightly off the body. Can have a single or double coat. Prone to matting behind the ears, under the legs, and around the collar area.
Flowing, luxurious coats that can reach the floor. Tangles and mats form very quickly without daily attention. Many owners opt for a "pet cut" to keep the coat at a manageable length.
Coarse, bristly outer coat with a softer undercoat. These breeds often need hand-stripping rather than clipping to maintain the correct coat texture. Low shedding.
Tight curls or waves that grow continuously. Very low shedding but mats easily if not brushed regularly. Always spray with conditioning mist before brushing to avoid breakage.
Dense, insulating undercoat with a longer topcoat. Designed for cold climates. Sheds massively twice a year ("blowing coat"). Never shave a double coat — it protects against both cold and heat.
Little to no fur. These dogs need extra skin care — regular moisturising, sunscreen in summer, and a coat in winter. Bathing is more frequent to prevent skin issues.
Shaving a double-coated breed (Husky, Retriever, Shepherd, etc.) damages the coat structure and removes their natural insulation against both heat and cold. The coat may never grow back properly. Use de-shedding tools instead.
Choosing the right brush for your dog's coat makes a huge difference. The wrong tool can be ineffective or even painful. Here's what each tool does and which coats it suits:
Fine wire pins on a flat head. Removes tangles, loose fur, and light mats. Good for medium, long, and curly coats.
Natural or nylon bristles. Distributes oils, smooths the coat, and removes surface debris. Ideal for short and smooth coats.
Rounded-tip pins on a cushioned pad. Gentle on long, silky coats. Good for finishing and smoothing after detangling.
Long teeth that reach through the topcoat to remove loose undercoat. Essential for double-coated breeds during shedding season.
Sharp, curved blades that cut through mats safely. Use gently on stubborn tangles before they become severe.
Rubber nodules on a glove. Loosens dead hair and massages the skin. Perfect for short-coated breeds who dislike brushes.
If you're unsure which brush to use, ask your vet or groomer for advice specific to your breed. Different tools work better on different dogs, and the right choice makes grooming much more comfortable for your pet.
Dogs don't need bathing as often as many owners think. Over-bathing strips the natural oils from their coat, leaving it dry and potentially causing skin irritation. For most dogs, regular brushing alone keeps the coat healthy. A good rule of thumb from the PDSA: unless your dog has rolled in something unpleasant, a rinse in warm water is usually sufficient.
There's no single answer, as it depends on coat type and lifestyle. As a general guide: smooth-coated dogs can go months between baths. Double-coated breeds typically need bathing two to three times a year. Curly-coated breeds benefit from a bath every six to eight weeks alongside their regular grooming appointment. Dogs that swim regularly or roll in mud will obviously need more frequent baths.
Never use human shampoo, washing up liquid, or household cleaning products on your dog. These can strip natural oils, cause chemical burns, and irritate sensitive skin. Always choose a shampoo specifically formulated for dogs.
Overgrown nails can cause real problems. Long nails alter your dog's posture, cause pain when walking, and can curl back into the paw pad, risking infection. Dogs that walk regularly on pavements and hard surfaces may naturally wear their nails down, but many dogs — especially smaller breeds — still need regular trimming.
As a rough guide, when your dog is standing still on a flat surface, their nails shouldn't touch the ground. If you can hear a clicking sound on hard floors, the nails are likely too long. Most dogs need their nails checked every three to four weeks.
The key is to avoid the "quick" — the pink tissue inside the nail containing blood vessels and nerves. On light-coloured nails, you can see the quick as a pink stripe. On dark nails, trim only tiny amounts at a time, stopping when you see a dark dot appear in the centre of the cut surface.
Get your dog used to having their paws handled from an early age. Practice by touching each paw and rewarding with a treat — no clipping needed. You can also practise the clipper sound by snipping dried pasta near your dog, then rewarding them. Build up gradually over several days.
If your dog has black nails and you're unsure where the quick is, or if they become very stressed during nail trimming, visit your vet or a professional groomer. It's much better to pay a small fee than to cause pain or create a lasting fear of nail clipping. Most vets or groomers charge around £5–£15 for a nail trim.
Check your dog's ears weekly for redness, swelling, discharge, or a bad smell — these are signs of infection. Dogs with floppy ears (Spaniels, Basset Hounds) and those that swim are more prone to ear problems because moisture gets trapped. Never push anything into the ear canal. If you notice a buildup of wax or an unusual smell, see your vet before attempting to clean them.
Some breeds naturally produce more tear staining than others, particularly white-coated and flat-faced breeds. Gently wipe away any discharge from the corner of each eye using a damp cotton pad. Use a separate pad for each eye to avoid spreading any infection. If discharge is green, yellow, or persistent, contact your vet.
Dental disease is one of the most common health problems in dogs, with many showing signs of gum disease by age four. Regular tooth brushing is the best prevention. Use a dog-specific toothbrush and toothpaste — never human toothpaste, as it contains ingredients that are toxic to dogs. Start by letting your dog taste the toothpaste, then gradually introduce the brush. Aim for daily brushing if possible, but even two to three times a week makes a difference.
The British climate means your dog's grooming needs change throughout the year. Here's what to focus on each season:
Heavy shedding season starts. Increase brushing to daily for double-coated breeds. Book a professional de-shedding treatment. Start flea and tick prevention as parasites become active. Check for dry, flaky skin caused by winter central heating.
Never shave double coats — they provide UV protection. Shorter cuts for long-haired breeds are fine but never to the skin. More frequent baths due to outdoor activity. Check for ticks after walks in long grass. Smooth-coated breeds may need sunscreen on exposed areas.
Second shedding season as winter coats grow in. Book another de-shedding treatment. Check paws after walks for conkers, acorns, and thorns. Keep belly fur trimmed on long-coated breeds to reduce mud buildup.
Keep fur between paw pads trimmed to prevent ice balls forming. Rinse paws after walks on gritted roads — road salt irritates skin. Smooth-coated and small breeds may need a coat outdoors. Moisturise if central heating causes dry skin.
Professional grooming is especially important for breeds with complex coats that need clipping, hand-stripping, or specialist cuts. A good groomer is also trained to spot health issues like skin conditions, ear infections, and lumps that owners might miss.
A standard full groom typically includes a bath with professional shampoo, blow dry, full brushout, nail clipping, ear cleaning, and either a clip, trim, or hand-strip depending on the breed. Some groomers include anal gland expression; others charge extra or recommend this is done by a vet.
| Dog Size / Type | Full Groom | Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Small, smooth coat (Jack Russell, Chihuahua) | £25 – £35 | Every 8–12 weeks |
| Small, long/curly coat (Shih Tzu, Bichon) | £35 – £50 | Every 6–8 weeks |
| Medium, double coat (Spaniel, Border Collie) | £40 – £55 | Every 6–8 weeks |
| Medium, curly (Cockapoo, Labradoodle) | £45 – £60 | Every 6–8 weeks |
| Large, double coat (Golden Retriever, Husky) | £55 – £80 | Every 6–10 weeks |
| Wire coat, hand-stripped (Terrier, Schnauzer) | £50 – £100 | Every 3–4 months |
| Giant breed (Newfoundland, Old English Sheepdog) | £70 – £100+ | Every 6–8 weeks |
Prices vary by region. London typically costs 30–50% more than rural areas. Mobile groomers may charge a small premium for the convenience of coming to your home.
Look for groomers who hold the City & Guilds qualification or are members of the Pet Industry Federation. Ask if they check vaccination status before accepting dogs — this is a sign of a professional, responsible salon. Don't be afraid to ask for a tour of the premises, and check online reviews. A good groomer will be happy to discuss your dog's specific needs and any concerns you have.
Brush your dog regularly between professional grooms — this reduces the work needed and can lower the price. Ask about loyalty schemes (many offer every 5th or 6th groom free). Choose clipping over hand-stripping to save £10–£20 per session. Book off-peak midweek slots for potential discounts.
The earlier you start grooming your puppy, the easier it will be throughout their life. Most professional groomers recommend a first visit after the second vaccination (usually around 10–12 weeks), but this is an introduction only — getting the puppy used to the sights, sounds, and handling rather than a full groom.
At home, start with short, gentle brushing sessions of just two to three minutes daily. Handle their paws, ears, mouth, and tail regularly, rewarding with treats so they associate grooming with positive experiences. This early investment pays off enormously — a dog that's comfortable being groomed is safer, healthier, and far less stressful at the vet.
PDSA — How often should you groom your pet? (pdsa.org.uk)
Blue Cross — How to groom a dog (bluecross.org.uk)
Dogs Trust — How to clip your dog's nails (dogstrust.org.uk)
The Kennel Club — Dog and puppy vaccinations (thekennelclub.org.uk)
Blue Cross — How to cut your dog's nails (bluecross.org.uk)
NimbleFins — Average Cost of Dog Grooming in the UK 2026 (nimblefins.co.uk)
Purina UK — How to cut a dog's nails (purina.co.uk)